You dream of
sitting beneath a coconut palm, watching the waves rise over a
white-sand beach. In your dream, you share this little piece of
paradise with parrots, dolphins and monkeys, with whom you pass sunny
days of pure tropical leisure. Nightfall can either mean a solo
commune with the biological intensity that only a tropical rainforest
can provide or, if you’re feeling refined, a bottle of fine Chilean
wine and a world-class meal.
Costa Rica has
grown from a nature-lover’s outback destination into a mature,
best-of-both-worlds combo. While the government has toiled to protect
the myriad ecosystems that have brought the country into the
international travel limelight, business people have opened unique
boutique hotels, gourmet restaurants and fascinating tours.
The old Costa
Rica, that of rugged countryside and exotic species, away from
crowds, still exists. In the Southern Zone, in fact, the old Costa
Rica thrives in its new fusion with subtle high-end lodges, sublime
dining and superb day trips.
The Southern
Zone is comprised of three main areas. Costa Ballena is the closest to
San Jose by road; further south is Golfito, a former banana-shipping
town; and there is the glorious isolation of the Osa Peninsula.
COSTA
BALLENA
Costa Ballena
is the region between the beach towns of Dominical and Ojochal. This
popular destination’s name comes from Ballena National Marine Park,
which features a unique land formation called a tombolo which, from
the air, looks like a whale’s tail (hence the name: Ballena means
“whale” in Spanish). In several of the park’s islands, the ocean
has carved caves that, when the waves are strong, shoot streams of
water skyward like blowholes.
The intense
natural beauty draws visitors from around the globe. Steep coastal
mountains, known as the Fila Costera, stretch all the way to the
coast. It’s the only region in the country where the beach and
mountains work to form such a dramatic backdrop.
Oh, and what
beaches they are. You could spend each day of a week-long vacation at
a unique beach and still want to come back for more next year. Check
out Dominical for surfing. Swimmers will find solace at Ventanas and
Arcos, closer to Ballena National Marine Park.
The area’s
accommodations could be considered an attraction in and of themselves.
As distinct and quirky as their respective owners, Costa Ballena’s
hotels are a truly unique smorgasbord of lodging. There are no chains.
Instead, it’s a series of hotels rich in personality and each
boasting views better than any postcard you’ve ever seen. And each
remains intimate, as no hotel has more than 20 rooms.
Although traditional Costa Rican dishes were readily available
throughout the area, only during the last few years have visitors to
Costa Ballena been able to enjoy local forays into international
cuisine.
Ojochal, about
20 minutes south of Dominical, offers a surprisingly sophisticated
range of international cuisine. Citrus and Exotica are perennial
favorites. However, small, locally run restaurants are tucked around
the region, both in Ojochal and along the Costanera Highway.
There is a wide
range of tours that allow you to explore the different aspects of the
area. Whale watching tours are popular (depending on the time of year,
you can see humpback, pilot and killer whales) and many visitors try
to take a trip to Corcovado National Park while in the area. More
locally based activities include visiting the Nauyaca waterfalls,
snorkeling and diving at Caño Island, sportfishing and more. Just
north of Domincal is Hacienda Barú, which is a private nature reserve
that offers a nice array of adventure activities (like canopy tours)
and other tours geared towards nature lovers.
Also,
Reptilandia boasts a nice collection of reptiles which are showcased
in well appointed terrariums in a garden setting. Check out Southern
Expeditions, based in Dominical (southernexpeditionscr.com) for
general information, or Croco Dive (www.crocodive.com) is a good
choice for water-based activities.
National Marine Park:
Ballena
The
park measures 5,375 hectares of sea and 115 hectares of land that can
be accessed from the communities of Uvita, Bahía or Piñuelas. There
are several tour operators who will show you the secrets of this
national marine park. Entrance costs 1,000 colones for residents and
$10 for foreigners.
Location:
The central Pacific coast, south of
Manuel Antonio. Drive time from San Jose takes about 4.5 to 5 hours.
However, work is underway on a number of highways that should cut
drive time to 3 hours. There is no airstrip in Ballena, but Paradise
Air (www.flywithparadise.com) and Sansa (www.flysansa.com) fly to the
airstrip in Palmar Sur, about 25 minutes away.
What
to bring: Beach wear and an
appetite. The local restaurants are a foodie’s paradise.
Weather: It’s tropical, so beach wear is a must. Daily showers fall
from May to November; the rest of the year is much drier, although it
could still rain.
OSA
PENINSULA
The
Osa Peninsula has been dubbed Costa Rica’s last wilderness frontier.
It may very well be just that. Rich in wildlife, sparsely populated
and, until recently, having very difficult access, much of this highly
forested area is conserved in national parks and private reserves.
Towering rainforests line undeveloped beaches and untouched coves,
making this region one of the most beautiful anywhere on earth.
In response to
a growing eco-tourism market, many environmentally conscious lodges
have opened up along the coast north of Corcovado national park. Drake
Bay has become a premier destination, catering for vacationers who
want to experience nature and comfort simultaneously. Nearby Caño
Island is excellent for snorkeling and diving, while the deeper waters
are great for sportfishing.
You
can swim with dolphins, go horseback riding and swing through the
trees on a canopy adventure. Dive with sharks; follow a tapir through
the forests; or simply hang out drinking fine wine at any of the
luxury lodges. That is how you experience Osa.
Around Town
It’s
remote. Drake Bay has just one small village, Agujitas, a friendly
place with a population of around 200. Agujitas was officially the
last town in Costa Rica without electricity homes have been on the
grid for only a few years now.
There
is a small school, a few stores (selling only bare essentials) and a
medical center.
Puerto Jiménez, on the other side of the peninsula, is a bustling,
full-service town with a distinct frontier feel. PJ is a great
springboard for checking out the wildlife in Matapalo or entering
Corcovado through Carate. There is a wide range of lodging and dining
options in there.
Weather
It’s
tropical humid here. Trade winds can deposit rain at anytime of the
year, but there are distinct differences in precipitation throughout
the year. The dry(er) season runs from January through April, with the
wettest months being October, November and December. You may want to
bring an umbrella. Shorts are indispensable, as the mercury climbs
into the high 80s and low 90s.
Getting there
The
inaccessibility of Osa has kept the region raw and untouched, and
makes getting there even more rewarding.
By
road: Drake Bay is accessible through Palmar Norte, requiring
a sturdy four-wheel-drive vehicle (weather permitting). Consult your
map and ask around for conditions; bridges may be washed out.
Puerto Jiménez
is the most popular base for exploring the region. To get there, take
the Costanera Sur, turning off at Chacarita. The road is currently
graded gravel in good condition.
By
boat: The best way to get here is by boat along the river
Sierpe. Your lodge should take care of the arrangements from the small
river port village of Sierpe (a short taxi or bus ride from Palmar
Norte). Independent travelers can usually find space on one of the
many small boats delivering passengers and supplies to Drake Bay
lodges. The river mouth can be choppy, which makes for an exciting
voyage.
Boats depart
daily from Golfito to Puerto Jiménez. The ride takes around 30
minutes on the fast boat ($5), or 90 minutes on the old-school boat.
By bus:
Several buses depart daily from San José to Puerto Jiménez, arriving
in around eight hours (ask a taxi driver to drop you at terminal
Blanco Lobo, en Barrio México).
By plane: Nature Air and Sansa each have daily direct flights to Drake
Bay and Puerto Jiménez, taking less than an hour. Check schedules at
(www.natureair.com) and (www.sansa.com). Paradise Air offers charters
(www.flywithparadise.com).
CORCOVADO
NATIONAL PARK.
Bug
spray and good boots are essential for a guided trip to the Sirena or
San Pedrillo rainforest stations. Lodges and travel companies can help
you make arrangements. Those wishing to stay overnight must phone
national park headquarters (2233-4160) to reserve a room and meals
(Spanish only). Alternatively, rough it: bring a tent and your own
food. Access is by foot (advanced planning advised), boat or plane
(contact Paradise Air www.flywithparadise.com).
GOLFITO
Golfito’s
setting is so perfect it almost hurts. The placid Golfo Dulce shimmers
in the torpid sun, while virgin rainforests climb hillsides at the
town’s back. Golfito´s dominating architectural style comes from
the United Fruit Company’s 50-year reign, and American
plantation-style buildings are common.
Sportfishing
has long been the main tourist attraction in town, and indeed any time
you can get on the water in the Golfo Dulce, you’re in for a good
day. Nearby beaches Pavones and
Zancudo are
great for surfing, attracting an international crowd.
Outside of the city, there are botanical gardens, indigenous
communities, and small rural community tourism options.
A nice
selection of fishing lodges and more upscale hotels have opened in
recent years, bringing a more international flavor to this old
banana-shipping community.
