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Southern Zone Guide

By Peter Majerle

Costa Rica Traveler, Vol.7 Ed. 04 2009

You dream of sitting beneath a coconut palm, watching the waves rise over a white-sand beach. In your dream, you share this little piece of paradise with parrots, dolphins and monkeys, with whom you pass sunny days of pure tropical leisure. Nightfall can either mean a solo commune with the biological intensity that only a tropical rainforest can provide or, if you’re feeling refined, a bottle of fine Chilean wine and a world-class meal.

Costa Rica has grown from a nature-lover’s outback destination into a mature, best-of-both-worlds combo. While the government has toiled to protect the myriad ecosystems that have brought the country into the international travel limelight, business people have opened unique boutique hotels, gourmet restaurants and fascinating tours.

The old Costa Rica, that of  rugged countryside and exotic species, away from crowds, still exists. In the Southern Zone, in fact, the old Costa Rica thrives in its new fusion with subtle high-end lodges, sublime dining and superb day trips.

The Southern Zone is comprised of three main areas. Costa Ballena is the closest to San Jose by road; further south is Golfito, a former banana-shipping town; and there is the glorious isolation of the Osa Peninsula.

COSTA BALLENA

Costa Ballena is the region between the beach towns of Dominical and Ojochal. This popular destination’s name comes from Ballena National Marine Park, which features a unique land formation called a tombolo which, from the air, looks like a whale’s tail (hence the name: Ballena means “whale” in Spanish). In several of the park’s islands, the ocean has carved caves that, when the waves are strong, shoot streams of water skyward like blowholes.

The intense natural beauty draws visitors from around the globe. Steep coastal mountains, known as the Fila Costera, stretch all the way to the coast. It’s the only region in the country where the beach and mountains work to form such a dramatic backdrop.

Oh, and what beaches they are. You could spend each day of a week-long vacation at a unique beach and still want to come back for more next year. Check out Dominical for surfing. Swimmers will find solace at Ventanas and Arcos, closer to Ballena National Marine Park.

The area’s accommodations could be considered an attraction in and of themselves. As distinct and quirky as their respective owners, Costa Ballena’s hotels are a truly unique smorgasbord of lodging. There are no chains. Instead, it’s a series of hotels rich in personality and each boasting views better than any postcard you’ve ever seen. And each remains intimate, as no hotel has more than 20 rooms.
Although traditional Costa Rican dishes were readily available throughout the area, only during the last few years have visitors to Costa Ballena been able to enjoy local forays into international cuisine.

Ojochal, about 20 minutes south of Dominical, offers a surprisingly sophisticated range of international cuisine. Citrus and Exotica are perennial favorites. However, small, locally run restaurants are tucked around the region, both in Ojochal and along the Costanera Highway.

There is a wide range of tours that allow you to explore the different aspects of the area. Whale watching tours are popular (depending on the time of year, you can see humpback, pilot and killer whales) and many visitors try to take a trip to Corcovado National Park while in the area. More locally based activities include visiting the Nauyaca waterfalls, snorkeling and diving at Caño Island, sportfishing and more. Just north of Domincal is Hacienda Barú, which is a private nature reserve that offers a nice array of adventure activities (like canopy tours) and other tours geared towards nature lovers.

Also, Reptilandia boasts a nice collection of reptiles which are showcased in well appointed terrariums in a garden setting. Check out Southern Expeditions, based in Dominical (southernexpeditionscr.com) for general information, or Croco Dive (www.crocodive.com) is a good choice for water-based activities.

National Marine Park: Ballena

The park measures 5,375 hectares of sea and 115 hectares of land that can be accessed from the communities of Uvita, Bahía or Piñuelas. There are several tour operators who will show you the secrets of this national marine park. Entrance costs 1,000 colones for residents and $10 for foreigners.

Location: The central Pacific coast, south of Manuel Antonio. Drive time from San Jose takes about 4.5 to 5 hours. However, work is underway on a number of highways that should cut drive time to 3 hours. There is no airstrip in Ballena, but Paradise Air (www.flywithparadise.com) and Sansa (www.flysansa.com) fly to the airstrip in Palmar Sur, about 25 minutes away.

What to bring: Beach wear and an appetite. The local restaurants are a foodie’s paradise.
Weather: It’s tropical, so beach wear is a must. Daily showers fall from May to November; the rest of the year is much drier, although it could still rain.

OSA PENINSULA

The Osa Peninsula has been dubbed Costa Rica’s last wilderness frontier. It may very well be just that. Rich in wildlife, sparsely populated and, until recently, having very difficult access, much of this highly forested area is conserved in national parks and private reserves. Towering rainforests line undeveloped beaches and untouched coves, making this region one of the most beautiful anywhere on earth.

In response to a growing eco-tourism market, many environmentally conscious lodges have opened up along the coast north of Corcovado national park. Drake Bay has become a premier destination, catering for vacationers who want to experience nature and comfort simultaneously. Nearby Caño Island is excellent for snorkeling and diving, while the deeper waters are great for sportfishing.

You can swim with dolphins, go horseback riding and swing through the trees on a canopy adventure. Dive with sharks; follow a tapir through the forests; or simply hang out drinking fine wine at any of the luxury lodges. That is how you experience Osa.

Around Town

It’s remote. Drake Bay has just one small village, Agujitas, a friendly place with a population of around 200. Agujitas was officially the last town in Costa Rica without electricity homes have been on the grid for only a few years now.

There is a small school, a few stores (selling only bare essentials) and a medical center.
Puerto Jiménez, on the other side of the peninsula, is a bustling, full-service town with a distinct frontier feel. PJ is a great springboard for checking out the wildlife in Matapalo or entering Corcovado through Carate. There is a wide range of lodging and dining options in there.

Weather

It’s tropical humid here. Trade winds can deposit rain at anytime of the year, but there are distinct differences in precipitation throughout the year. The dry(er) season runs from January through April, with the wettest months being October, November and December. You may want to bring an umbrella. Shorts are indispensable, as the mercury climbs into the high 80s and low 90s.

Getting there

The inaccessibility of Osa has kept the region raw and untouched, and makes getting there even more rewarding.

By road: Drake Bay is accessible through Palmar Norte, requiring a sturdy four-wheel-drive vehicle (weather permitting). Consult your map and ask around for conditions; bridges may be washed out.

Puerto Jiménez is the most popular base for exploring the region. To get there, take the Costanera Sur, turning off at Chacarita. The road is currently graded gravel in good condition.

By boat: The best way to get here is by boat along the river Sierpe. Your lodge should take care of the arrangements from the small river port village of Sierpe (a short taxi or bus ride from Palmar Norte). Independent travelers can usually find space on one of the many small boats delivering passengers and supplies to Drake Bay lodges. The river mouth can be choppy, which makes for an exciting voyage.

Boats depart daily from Golfito to Puerto Jiménez. The ride takes around 30 minutes on the fast boat ($5), or 90 minutes on the old-school boat.

By bus: Several buses depart daily from San José to Puerto Jiménez, arriving in around eight hours (ask a taxi driver to drop you at terminal Blanco Lobo, en Barrio México). 
By plane: Nature Air and Sansa each have daily direct flights to Drake Bay and Puerto Jiménez, taking less than an hour. Check schedules at (www.natureair.com) and (www.sansa.com). Paradise Air offers charters (www.flywithparadise.com).

CORCOVADO NATIONAL PARK.

Bug spray and good boots are essential for a guided trip to the Sirena or San Pedrillo rainforest stations. Lodges and travel companies can help you make arrangements. Those wishing to stay overnight must phone national park headquarters (2233-4160) to reserve a room and meals (Spanish only). Alternatively, rough it: bring a tent and your own food. Access is by foot (advanced planning advised), boat or plane (contact Paradise Air www.flywithparadise.com).

GOLFITO

Golfito’s setting is so perfect it almost hurts. The placid Golfo Dulce shimmers in the torpid sun, while virgin rainforests climb hillsides at the town’s back. Golfito´s dominating architectural style comes from the United Fruit Company’s 50-year reign, and American plantation-style buildings are common.

Sportfishing has long been the main tourist attraction in town, and indeed any time you can get on the water in the Golfo Dulce, you’re in for a good day. Nearby beaches Pavones and

Zancudo are great for surfing, attracting an international crowd.
Outside of the city, there are botanical gardens, indigenous communities, and small rural community tourism options.

A nice selection of fishing lodges and more upscale hotels have opened in recent years, bringing a more international flavor to this old banana-shipping community.

How to get there: Buses take around eight hours from San Jose, as does driving. Flights take 45 minutes. Check schedules at (www.natureair.com) and (www.sansa.com). Paradise Air offers charters (www.flywithparadise.com).

Weather: Like Osa, it’s tropical humid here. Trade winds can deposit rain at anytime of the year, but there are distinct differences in precipitation throughout the year. The dry(er) season runs from January through April, with the wettest months being October, November and December. You may want to bring an umbrella. Shorts are indispensable, as the mercury climbs into the high 80s and low 90s.


Pour obtenir davantage d'information sur le Costa Rica, visitez le site www.visitcostarica.com.